OpenSails

My Messolonghi

Water Mellon moored alongside the Messolonghi town quay at sunset, with a folding bicycle on the quay and calm water.

Messolonghi is home. The town sits inside a vast lagoon on the southern Ionian coast, reached by a three-mile channel between salt pans and wetlands, with birds overhead. It is not a tourist town, and that is exactly why we love it.

Water Mellon moored alone on the Messolonghi town quay on a foggy morning, her reflection in still water, rusty bollards and an empty bench on the quay.
A foggy morning on the town quay. The lagoon, the marina and the rest of the world simply disappear.

A slow town with a long memory

People cycle through quiet streets and take their time over coffee. The town remembers its past: the Exodus of 1826 made Messolonghi a symbol of the War of Independence, and the Garden of Heroes keeps that memory alive. With around 12,000 people, it has given Greece five prime ministers.

A large superyacht moored at the Messolonghi quay at night, its bow reflected in still water, with sailing boats and lights beyond.
The quay at night. Superyacht or small cruiser, there is room for everyone.

Hospitality comes on a plate

Order a beer, an ouzo or a glass of wine here and a small plate of real food often comes with it, unasked: a spoonful of stewed meat with fries, fried anchovies with potatoes, whatever the kitchen has on. It is not a tourist extra. It is simply how people here host.

What we would feed a visiting friend

  • Avgotaracho: grey mullet roe, cured and sealed in wax. The lagoon’s most famous product, and one of the great Greek delicacies.
  • Fleur de sel: hand-harvested salt from the lagoon. Locals sprinkle it on salads and finished dishes rather than cooking with it.
  • Grilled eel: simply grilled, not smoked. A Messolonghi classic.
  • Pasto fish: lightly salted lagoon fish, eaten raw with lemon and olive oil. Our sushi, and perfect with ouzo.
  • Petali: a whole flathead grey mullet, opened up and grilled over charcoal. Ask for it by name.

Beyond the quay

  • Garden of Heroes: a quiet memorial park, seven minutes’ walk from the port.
  • The lagoon’s birds: herons, egrets and flamingos among more than 200 species. Bring binoculars; it is a 15-minute walk.
  • Salt Museum: how the lagoon makes its salt, about 5 km from the quay.
  • Xenokrateion Museum: finds from ancient Pleuron and Roman times, 15 minutes on foot.
  • The view from above: coffee at Kato Retsina, 360 m up and about 10 km away, with the whole lagoon below you.
  • The black mud: locals use the lagoon’s mud for skin and joints. It is five minutes from the quay, and free.

Sailing here? The practical side, from the channel and berths to fuel, water and getting to Athens, is in our Harbour guide.

Ashore, we belong to the Nautical Club of Messolonghi.

Stories