Greece is easier to enjoy once you know a few small things: why the coffee comes cold, why nobody brings the bill, and what the kiosk on the corner is for. These are short notes from everyday life, the ones we end up explaining to every friend who sails in.
The períptero
The períptero is the little street kiosk you find on almost every corner. It opens early, closes late, and sells cold drinks, ice cream, snacks, phone credit and, when you need them, aspirin or batteries. It is always near and always useful.
Coffee is cold, and slow
You will find the classic ellinikós, the Greek coffee served hot in a small cup, and Italian espresso. But most Greeks drink their coffee cold: a freddo espresso or freddo cappuccino, shaken over ice. A coffee here lasts as long as the conversation.
Taverna time
Lunch is around 2 or 3 pm, and dinner rarely starts before 9. Nobody rushes you to order or to leave, and the bill only comes when you ask for it. Dishes are meant to be shared: order a few plates for the table.
Tipping is appreciated but never expected. Most people round up or leave a few coins.
What is on the table
Vegetables are at the heart of the Greek table: gemistá (stuffed tomatoes and peppers), briám (vegetables baked in olive oil) and hórta (wild greens with lemon). Wild oregano and thyme end up in almost everything, and feta in most of the rest. By the sea, look for grilled octopus, fried anchovies and shrimp saganáki. For a quick bite, a gyros or souvlaki wrap costs a few euros.
And the Greek salad, the real one: tomato, cucumber, onion, green pepper, olives, a slab of feta, oregano and olive oil. No lettuce.
Ouzo
A clear, aniseed spirit, drunk slowly with ice and a splash of water, and always with something to eat: octopus, anchovies, mussels. It turns cloudy when the water goes in, and that is how you know it is right.
House wine
Greece has made wine for more than four thousand years, and most tavernas serve their own house wine by the carafe. It is cheap and often good. Ask for a small taste first; if it is not for you, move on to a bottle.
Beer
In a taverna, beer means lager, and the waiter will recite brands rather than styles. The longer version is in our Logbook.
People help, and not for money
Most Greeks speak English and are quick to help, sometimes more than you asked for. If someone stops what they are doing to sort out your problem, they are not expecting a tip. It is just hospitality.
Safe at anchor
Theft is rare and people respect boats. The real risk at anchor is other skippers: someone dropping their anchor across your chain, or arriving noisily after midnight. Stay alert, stay kind, and remember the Coast Guard is never far away.
Cinema under the stars
On summer nights, open-air cinemas fill with folding chairs on gravel and little tables for your beer. Get something from the bar, sit back and let the film mix with the night breeze and the smell of jasmine.
Three things visitors get wrong
Toilet paper goes in the bin, not the toilet. The Meltemi can change your plans in the Aegean, so build spare days into the trip. And in summer, arrive before noon if you want a good spot on the quay.